Because Cleveland blocks are becoming harder to find and the engine is no longer as popular as it once was, I build each one on a estimate price bases, that is to say, once i know what you want I will work up a quote.
Below you will find an esitmate for a short block and cylinder heads. For more information contact me.
I only build a few of these engines each year and everyone is a little different.
The pricing is out of day being 2005 Contact me for infomation on building Clevelands and Clevors email@example.com
Parts I've begun using recently.
355C SHORT BLOCK $2000
FULLY MACHINED 351C BLOCK
383C SHORT BLOCK $2800
FULLY MACHINED 351C BLOCK
Above as a Balanced Rotating Kit $1600
OPTIONAL FORGED STEEL CRANK ADD $350
OPTIONAL H-BEAM RODS ADD $150
Main Stud Girdle ADD $200
SCAT 9000 CAST 3.75" CRANKSHAFT SCAT 6" I-BEAM RODS (H-BEAM OPTION)
MOLY RINGS BEARINGS - Main, Rod and Cam
HARMONIC BALANCER FLEX PLATE
BALANCED ASSEMBLED SHORT BLOCK
REGROUND FORD CRANKSHAFT NEW 5140 CONNECTING RODS
MOLY RINGS BEARINGS - Main, Rod and Cam
HARMONIC BALANCER FLEX PLATE
BALANCED ASSEMBLED SHORT BLOCK
Ford Racing Block to make a Clevor$3600
Main Journal Type: 351 Cleveland mains
Engine Block Style: Aftermarket/OEM tall deck
Deck Height (in): 9.500 in.
Cylinder Bore as Shipped: 4.000 in.
Maximum Cylinder Bore Diameter: 4.155 in.
Engine Block Material: Aluminum
Main Bolt Style: 4-bolt
Main Caps Included: Yes
Main Cap Material: Steel billet
Main Cap Fasteners Included: Yes
Main Bearings Included: No
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece
Finished Cylinder Bores: No
Raised Cam Location: No
Cam Bearings Included: No
Freeze Plugs Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold individually.
These Ford Racing 351 aluminum wet or dry sump race engine blocks feature cast iron sleeves, an all-aluminum water jacket, and oil galley plugs. They are manufactured from 356-T7 aluminum and feature siamesed cylinder bores, a 9.400 in. deck height, 4-bolt main journals with steel billet main caps, and 2.75 in. diameter main journals. At just 124 lbs., the Ford Racing 351 aluminum wet or dry sump engine blocks save a tremendous amount of weight over a standard cast iron block. The blocks will accept a standard wet or dry sump oiling system. Build a reliable, durable, high-horsepower engine with one of these Ford Racing 351 aluminum wet or dry sump engine blocks.
CLEVELAND CYLINDER HEAD OPTIONS
Long Block Add to short block price.
AFD 2V $2000 Ported $3000
AFD 4V $2100 Ported $3100
CHI 3V $2350 Ported $3150
Iron 2V $1000 Ported $1500
Edelbrock $1825 Ported $2600
Valve Train Cam Lifters Pushrod Rockers Timing Set
Roller Lifter Cam $900
High Performance Hyd. Roller LiftersAdd $200
Solid Roller Lifters Add $150
Flat Tappet Lifter Cam $550
Assembly Kit Head Bolts Gasket Set Oil Pump Assembled Cam Degreed $450
Completed Long Block Oil pan Front cover Manifold
CHI Manifold for CHI Heads on 400 Block
Ford Style Hyd. Roller Lifters Retention Kit
Custom Ground Camshaft Add $100
MACHINED 351C 4.03" BLOCK
REGROUND FORD CAST 3.500" CRANKSHAFT
5140 FORGED I-BEAM RODS
FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS (10.5:1 with 64cc heads)
FORGED DISH PISTONS (9.3:1 with 64cc heads)
BEARINGS - Main, Rod and Cam
ASSEMBLED SHORT BLOCK
Examples of Completed 355 Motors (no carb or ignition)
Iron Head Hyd. Cam Motor $4600 (approx 420BHP)
Edelbrock Heads Hyd. Roller Cam Motor $5770 (approx 500BHP)
Examples of Completed 383 Motors (no carb or ignition)
Iron Heads Hyd. Cam Motor $5500 (approx 450BHP)
AFD 2V Hyd. Roller Cam Motor $6500 (approx 520BHP)
AFD Ported 4V Solid Roller Motor $8500 (approx 600BHP)
Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap 351-C Manifold $345
CHI 3V Manifolds 9.2" & 9.5" Deck Heights 4150 & 4500 Carbs
CHI 3V 302 Heads Only
8.2" Deck with water crossover
I GET MANIFOLDS FOR COMBINATIONS FROM WHAT IS AVAILABLE
I DO NOT HAVE ANY MANIFOLD ON THE SHELF
CHI 4150 Manifolds
CHI 4500 Dominator Manifold
A Little 302 Cleveland History
Cleveland history info
Due to the shortage of 351C blocks and their low deck height the 400M can be built with more cubic inches and more power.
There are some difference between the C and M blocks which must be consider when taking advantage of their benefits.
The 400M has a BIG BLOCK Transmission Bolt Pattern. Use a Big Block Transmission.
The block is an inch taller. That means longer rods and more stroker potential,
but also the need for intake manifold spacer plates when using a 351C intake manifold AND checking that any headers you plan on using will fit. Further more the valve covers will be taller so check the clearance to the brake booster.
The cost of building a 400M is about the same, but figure on buying custom made pistons to take advantage of this engine block.
Crank Stroke Length...
Power Secrets of the "400 Cleveland" Revealed!
Story by Norm Lenhart
The 351M / 400 engines came at a time when Ford's Windsor plant couldn't keep up with the demand for mid-size engines coming from the truck and big car divisions. The FE series had reached the end of it's production run, leaving the boys at the blue oval in a bit of a dilemma. They wanted an engine of moderate size with the torque of a big block, and enough fuel/emissions efficiency to meet the growing governmental demands on the industry. They failed miserably. Blasphemy? No, cold, hard reality. In their stock form, and mated to full time 4WD transfer cases, the M/400 engines were grossly under powered, returned hideous fuel mileage, and weren't exactly the air scrubbers on wheels the Feds were looking for. There are many reasons for the M/400's less than inspiring performance. . . Strange when you stop and consider that the engines are nothing more than a tall-deck "Cleveland". You remember the 351 Cleveland don't you? It dominated NHRA Pro Stock Drag Racing before the dawn-of-the-mountain-motor was effectively banned from NASCAR for the sin of breathing "too well." It unleashed terror on the streets in it's "Boss 351" Mustang trim. So what happened? The short version is that the engineers at FoMoCo tried to make a fire breather into something it wasn't and only succeeded in producing a dud. Rather than rehash the history as to "why" they did it, you're probably a lot more interested in "how" to correct their mistake.
It's all in your heads
Or more precisely, your engine's heads. Sitting atop the M/400s are the 2V versions of the 351 Cleveland heads - the very same pieces bolted to 10's of thousands of 351 Clevelands throughout the early 70s. The 2V heads feature 2.07 in. intake valves, open chambers, and ports sized to shame their famous "2.02 Camel Back" Chevy counterparts. In an airflow comparison with Ford's own SVO GT-40X High-Po aftermarket heads, the numbers speak for themselves.
Intake flow at CAM Lift.400.500.600 .700
Stock 351C 2V113131144 153
SVO GT-40X105126142 154
Exhaust flow at CAM Lift.400.500.600 .700
Stock 351C 2V8096109 119
SVO GT-40X96106114 119
For a street / performance 4x4 application, the 2V heads are preferred over the 4V versions because of their superior low end torque. The tennis ball size intakes of the 4Vs may be the ticket to high-RPM bliss, but they are more a hindrance than help in most 4x4 applications. The open chamber design presents the first of the engine's serious performance shortcomings. Designed for low compression / emissions purposes, the open chamber configuration results in significant torque/HP loss over the closed chamber design of the Boss / HO 4V head. I know what you're thinking - wouldn't it be great if Ford had made the heads with the high efficiency 2V ports and the high compression of the closed combustion chamber? They did. Unfortunately, they were only available in Australia. If you're lucky, you can find them at auto swap meets, but you'll have better luck importing a set from an Aussie scrap yard. Hey, we never said this would be easy. For most of us, the Aussie route is prohibitive in one way or another, so the only real way to achieve the needed boost in compression is through flat top or domed pistons. While a look through performance catalogs won't yield much in the way of high compression replacements, there's a little known, and fairly easy solution to custom slugs. Use 351 Cleveland pistons with bushed connecting rods. Since the 351C and 351M/400 pistons utilize wrist pins of different diameters, a machine shop can re-size the M/400 rods to accommodate the proper pin. You'll then have access to pistons ranging from the stock 8 to 1 compression ratio, up to race gas only territory. A realistic ratio falls between 9 and 10 to 1. Any higher and you'll need octane booster. With a two-point jump in compression, an increase of 50 HP is a very conservative estimate, based on no other changes. Once you establish a solid compression ratio, those big valves and ports will really start to pay dividends. But don't stop there.
Oh, "Cam" on...
The biggest problem the M/400 has, hands down, is the fact that FoMoCo chose to retard the cam by four degrees to meet emissions requirements. Face it. Big valves and ports are useless when there's little air/fuel flowing through them into the combustion chambers. That said, the obvious solution is to ditch the stock cam, lifters, and timing chain in favor of more performance oriented versions. With 10-to-1 compression, you can effectively use a pretty wild cam, but more isn't better when camming an off-roader. Unless you're planning on running a high stall converter in a mud truck or prerunner, you'll be better served with a saner profile. Look for a cam in the .520-.550 gross lift / 260-272 degree duration range. Keep in mind that the Clevelands are more "intake efficient", so a dual pattern cam favoring the exhaust side is often a good choice. The advent of roller cam conversions opens up another possibility for the M/400 enthusiast. The greater efficiency of the design results in significant performance / mileage gains over a comparable hydraulic profile. The added cost for the roller is insignificant when weighed against it's benefits. Don't even think about a stock replacement timing chain. Go with a roller chain assembly and run the cam "straight up" For example, zero degrees advanced/retarded to regain the horsepower the factory threw away. Give serious consideration to adding matching valve springs, retainers, and push rods. Some cam builders require these pieces to maintain warranty. If you're going to a bigger cam, it's a good idea to get the springs to match. Otherwise, your new "thunderstick" may well fatigue the stock pieces quickly, resulting in catastrophic engine failure. Lastly, roller-rocker arms are a smart replacement for the stock units. Less friction means more power and efficiency, and you don't need a 10,000 RPM screamer to realize those kind of benefits. Another important point to consider is that the production tolerances of the factory stamped steel rocker arms vary widely. With a theoretical ratio of 1.73 to 1, you could be losing considerable lift and duration at the valve, which adds up to significant loss of horsepower.
Clevelands have a reputation for oiling problems, but they usually manifest at high RPM. High volume oil pumps are cheap insurance against an early death at any RPM. If you're anticipating a lot of highly angular travel, baffling the oil pan with kits from Moroso, Milodon, or others will help keep the oil pump pick-up from cavitating., and the oil flowing to the bearings where it belongs. Moroso also sells an "Accumulator", which will force an additional quart into the system in the event of a sudden pressure drop. Speaking of oil, go Synthetic. Greater lubricating properties and reduced friction equal "free horsepower". Every little bit helps.
Clevelands will consume a sick amount of fuel if you let them. It's like handing a kid a tub of ice cream and a spoon, then leaving him to his own devices. The trick here is giving them just enough to keep them happy. According to Holley's charts, a 400 cid engine requires less than 600 cfm of flow at 5000 RPM. Sure, you can bolt on a 750 cfm or even larger carb, but you'll kill low end driveability and fuel efficiency if you give in to the temptation. Rather than striving for a 4WD dragster, stick with a smaller carb, and spend the time jetting it right. Clevelands respond well to large accelerator pump shots, and crisp jetting. While no single plane intakes are currently in production for the M/400, Holley markets adapters to mate the 351 Cleveland intakes to the taller deck block. Clevelands like single plane manifolds - A lot. You'll need to increase the pump shot considerably, but the results in mid to upper rpm horsepower are more than worth it. For those choosing the dual plane route, Edelbrock, and Weiand offer aluminum intakes that are worlds above the stock (and heavy) 2BBL intakes. The benefits of a dual plane are primarily low to mid rance HP - just the opposite of the single plane. Determine your driving style, and choose according to your needs.
Igniting the fuel is of prime importance to any engine. While the Duraspark ignition is OK for a stocker, it's far behind today's aftermarket buzz boxes. You can pick your poison among the top quality brands and be rewarded with added performance and efficiency. Just keep it simple! There's a big difference in price between a performance and "race only" ignition, but at streetish RPM levels, there's no benefit to running the ultra high-end pieces. In fact, there may be a performance loss. Some of these volt monsters are designed for short use (1/4 mile style), and will fail under sustained street use. If you want to spend wisely, go conservative on the buzz box, and apply the difference to an aftermarket distributor. Aside from accurate timing (which boosts performance on it's own), you'll get the benefit of adjustable advance - mechanical, vacuum, or both. Clevelands like advance - early, and in quantity. That's something you won't get with a stock distributor. Adjustable distributors will take some time to tweak to your particular engine, but again, the results are well worth the effort.
Stock manifolds are passable at best, and a set of headers will unlock hidden horses from an otherwise free breathing engine. 1-3/4 in. to 1-7/8in. primary tubes are about all a 400 cube engine with a 5000 RPM ceiling will ever be able to use. Don't get crazy in tube diameter - you'll kill the low end outright. A 2 1/4 to 3 inch dual exhaust system with free flowing mufflers will result in a good match for this engine. If you're more of a crawler type, go small to boost the low end. If speed is what you need, go to the 3 in. pipe, Just remember to be realistic in your driving habits when selecting tubing diameter from the primaries on back. You'll be happier in the long run. Also consider a crossover "H" or "X" pipe. The battle still rages over their benefits, but they're worth the install just for the effect on the exhaust tone.
While this is far from the seminal work of reference on the 351M/400 Cleveland engines, you can see there's plenty of power to be had - you just gotta' know where to look for it. You may be asking yourself, "Why go through the grief? Why not swap in a big block?" Simple really. To extract a similar level of horsepower and torque, you'd still need to swap in a mildly built 429 / 460. Now when you compare the cost of building/swapping the big block to simply building the M/400, the money you save will pay for every mod we've listed here.
All things being equal, a 460 will outpower it's little brother mod for mod. You can't argue with cubic inches - much. Yet a built 400 will provide disgusting levels of power. In the end, the 400 vs. 460 decision is yours alone.
Just remember, those Chevy guys get real nervous when they hear the word "Cleveland", and that's gotta' count for something!.
The 351M and 351C have different blocks. the M block is like an inch taller. i believe the M does use a Windsor crank, but im not totally sure about that. 351M and 351C heads are interchangable, and so are the cams, but certain cams and heads work better for different setups. as far as the oiling system, this was a problem with all clevelands (351C, 351M, 400M). they sell a restricter kit that keeps most of the oil in the lower end of the motor. ford stopped production of the 351M & 400M in '82. as far as oil pressure reading problems, most of this is due to the placement of the sending unit on the rear of the block. to fix this, 302's and 351W's have an extention coming out of the block between the oil filter and fuel pump that the sending unit screws into, and you can put one of those on your cleveland motor to get a more accurate reading on oil pressure. by doing this, you are getting direct pressure straight off the oil pump, so you wont notice as much of a fluctuation in oil pressure.
400M's do have some oil system related problems (the cam gets the oil first, and the crank is oiled through the cam bearing passages, which is not really enough), and they suffer from some very thin blocks (you are lucky if you can go .030, .040 is pushing it).
Hello,my name is Bill .
I live in Tenn. I have raced 351 c for many years . Your article is very good in talking about 351c but you and I disagree on one thing in my experience it is not good to put high volume /high pressure oil pump on a 351c . Here is another way use layout fluid to make sure holes in main bearings are the same size as the saddle in the block.use 2 5/16 washers between the cotter pin and cup in the stock oil pump resrtict 234 main with moroso ,010 kit. if you do this you will have 10 pounds oil pressure at idle and 80 pounds at 8000 rpm. (I cannot take credit for this info but you can give credit to Mr roush(jack ) as he told me this was theyre setup in thetyre nascar engines in the day ) run a solid lifter ,cam 294 solid from comp cams is an excellent cam for 4 bbl 351 c even though it is not split duration with port plates from csi racing as well as a windage tray I ran 11-1 compression with open chamber 4 bbl heads an 800 cfm holley(tuned) and hooker super comps through dual 2.5s with crossover .it was in a mach 1 mustang that ran (with a 4 speed )in the 6s eigth mile.it would smash the back bumper on the ground on the street.
Again I think you have a lot of great info . the only reason I offer this info is that I spun a lot of rod bearings trying to run aftermarket oil pumps til Jack showed me the light,