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Hot Rod Mag Article

What kind Of Oil Should I Use?   Generally speaking the more the oil costs the better it is. I'm not a fan of synthetic oils, but they are better than $2.00 store bought. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline, Mobil One are examples of synthetics. If you use them wait till you have at least 1000 miles on a new motor, as sometime the piston rings will not "break in" on this stuff. Synthetic oils do have some short comings, seal leakage, loss of ring seal. I prefer a high grade petroleum oil, typically 30 weight. The Very Best Petroleum Oil I know of is It has the best possible additive package (API) ZINI & BORON Pure Power! SAE 10W/30 CI-4/SL* Motor Oil is API Licensed for Long Drain and Energy Conserving. Pure Power! has an extremely high TBN/Alkaline Reserve (13+) which effectively neutralizes corrosive acids to protect bearings and other vital surfaces. Pure Power! extends motor oil change intervals 2-4 times, lowers operating temperatures, lowers emissions, increases fuel mileage and increases horsepower. These are just some of the benefits from using Pure Power  While Pure Power does cost more than cheap oil, combined with their Filter, the oil change interval is EXTENDED TO 12,000 MILES! This means it will eventually safe you money, but more importantly it is saving your engine ESPECIALLY big truck engines! The API package in store bought oils has gotten less making then more unreliable Given that today's $2 oils are not very good, using a good ADDITIVE has become more critical. If you do not use Pure Power, then I strongly recommend CMW OIL Entech Engine Oil Additive EA37580E   The following gas companies import Middle Eastern oil: Shell....................................      205,742,000 barrels Chevron/Texaco....................       144,332,000 barrels Exxon /Mobil........................       130,082,000 barrels Marathon/Speedway.............       117,740,000 barrels Amoco..................................       62,231,000 barrels And CITGO oil is imported from Venezuela by Dictator Hugo Chavez Here are some large companies that do not import Middle Eastern oil: Sunoco.........................    0 barrels  Conoco.......................     0 barrels  Sinclair......................      0 barrels  BP / Phillips................       0 barrels Hess. ............................. 0 barrels  ARC0............................ 0 barrels Maverick.........................  0 barrels Flying J. .......................... 0 barrels Valero............................   0 barrels Murphy Oil USA  .............  0   Sold at Wal-Mart , gas is from Arkansas, fully  USA owned and produced.           CMW Oil Company has released a new formulated engine treatment that has no MOLY or PTFE. Entech   Engine Oil Additive adjusts its properties under varying conditions in such a way that the chemical bond formed within the protective film become much harder with increasing pressure. When pressure pushes down on it, it can push back because its bonds get ever tighter with more pressure. Entech is compatible with all synthetic and standard motor oil to achieve outstanding wear control, resistance to thermal breakdown at high operating temperatures and cleanliness that are demanded by today’s sophisticated modern aluminum or steel engines, Rated for gasoline and diesel engines. No Molybdenum Disulphide Increases fuel mileage Extra protection for turbochargers Increases protection during break-in Reduces frictional values Excellent adhesion properties Compatible with petroleum and synthetic lubricants Completely oil soluble    It will raise the quality of any oil to be suitable for your expensive high performance engine.Orignally intended for diesel engines Shell Rotella T has proven it's self in petrol engines and only cost about a buck more than crappy oil. Adding a bottle of CMW OIL ENGINE ADDITIVE to any oil makes it way better. I can provide you with CMW OIL Entech Engine Oil Additive EA37580E with your motor at $15 a bottle or $14 in groups of 4.   I recommend Shell Rotella T which I can supply as your second best choice of oil. Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade High performance all-season engine oil Product Description Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W-40 with Advanced Soot Control is tested over millions of miles in the most extreme real-world conditions. It is a premium quality, heavy-duty multigrade oil for all-season use in diesel-powered or gasoline-powered equipment. It meets or exceeds the warranty and service requirements of virtually all diesel and many gasoline engine manufacturers—for both newer and older engines. It is recommended especially for on-highway service applications and is also recommended for off-highway applications, especially where all-season use is desired. Over the past 30 years, Shell ROTELLA® T has retained its position as one of the best-selling heavyduty multigrade oils in the U.S. The tightening of federal emission requirements has resulted in engine designs that require enhanced oil performance. Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W- 40 is a leader in meeting leading OEM specifications, as well as the enhanced oil performance requirements for API CI - 4 PLUS, Caterpillar ECF-1, Mercedes- Benz 228.3, Cummins CES 20078, Detroit Diesel 93K214, Mack EO-N Premium Plus 03, Mercedes-Benz 228.3, and Volvo VDS-3, and meets the warranty requirement of all major diesel engine manufacturers. Also formulated with Advanced Soot Control chemistry, Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W-40 delivers exceptional heavy-duty and soot control protection, plus outstanding cold-weather performance. Applications Heavy-duty diesel and mixed fleets in all types of< over-the-road service, including engines with EGR Recommended for diesel-powered equipment, including those powered by Caterpillar, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, Mack, Mercedes-Benz, International and Volvo engines in all types of service Off-highway applications where an all-season, universal engine oil is desired, such as construction, mining, logging and agriculturual service for manufacturers, including John Deere, Case IH, Komatsu and Agco for manufacturers• Heavy-duty transmission applications requiring Allison C-4 Many gasoline engines, especially the hard-working engines of pickup trucks, sport-utility vehicles (SUVs), minivans and motorcycles Passenger cars, light trucks, farm equipment, forklifts and assorted stationary equipment with automotive type LPG- or LNG-fueled engines where ashless or low-ash oils are not specified by the manufacturer Detroit Diesel Series 53, 71 and 92 engines operating in ambient temperatures below 0°F use Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W-40 Note: Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 40 single grade oil is the preferred choice for most Detroit Diesel 2-stroke cycle engines. Advanced Soot Control Because of stricter emission requirements and changes in engine design, more soot goes into the oil in today’s high-technology diesel engines. Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade with Advanced Soot Control provides outstanding protection against engine wear deposits and viscosity thickening due to soot. Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade Offers: Excellent viscosity control and shear stability Outstanding engine cleanliness Performance meets all requirements of today’s high-performance, fuel-efficient, low-emission diesel engines operating in severe conditions Excellent low-temperature flow properties to help speed cold starts Enhanced high temperature oxidation stability Exceptional deposit control Exceptional control of valve train wear Excellent engine protection and durability Outstanding ability to handle soot Extended oil drain capability   Another great product GM EOS  See Article Use it in your new engine for First Start Up, ESPECIALLY with Flat Tappet Camshafts I use CMW OIL products in the assembly of my engine just like the top NASCAR teams do. It cost more to build an engine this way, but it makes for a longer lasting slightly more powerful engine. Last Oil Filter You Will Every Need For Your Engine.  Twice The Surface Area - Half the Micron Size Nothing Bad Gets Through  Click Here To Order Phone 760-247-0690

To obtain an engine, PHONE me at 760-247-0690 We will discuss your application, going over the details. I then will send you an Engine Building Agreement(provides you with legal protection). You will return it with a Personal Check and I will begin Building Your High Performance Motor. Once your Engine is completed, if you wish I will Start it up and "Break it in", and apply the Warranty This way I can check it out for any possible small problems, and avoid the risk of return. I can also run it on the Dynamometer to see how much  and Horsepower it makes. Everyone pays the same for Shipping no matter where in the world you live. Unlike companies advertising free shipping I do not add in the cost of Shipping to the price of the engine. I am an engine builder, I do not have engines for sale. I tried to be a salesman for a time, I found I couldn't sell fire to an Eskimo. Instead I help people figure out what type of engine will best suit their application. By discuss and emails we develop the project together based on power output requirements, budget restraints, and drivability. Once we have a combination determined, an agreement and deposit See Terms I buyer your parts, apply machine and assembly labor and that's is your price. Add on any warranty purchase and a flat shipping fee, and your final cost is as low as I can provide. If a similar engine is being offer elsewhere for less, then it is because the parts in it cost less. The actually Shipping fee you pay has been discounted. You are paying for the freight only. I am paying for construction of the crate, and deliver to the freight company. For more details See Shipping.  You have Many Choices as to where to buy a Crate Engine. Call Me to find out if I'm the right Engine Builder for You. I build Street Motors, Race Motors, and Monster Motors Personally. It is my name and my reputation, I need to make sure it's done right. I don't just punch a clock, turn some wrenches and clock out. As such I build a limited number each year, and I focus on the details.  I'm into Drag Racing and Hot Street Machines. I enjoy building Powerful Engines for Muscle Cars. So Pick Up the Phone and Call me, Find Out if I'm the guy.  Make one crucial mistake, and big inches can spell big disaster. Seven Rules of building big engines by DAVID VIZARD

Good job with my 454 John. My Chevelle now runs in the elevens. Maybe I'll get you to stroke my engine next year if you think it will put me in the tens. It runs great on the street as well. Keep up the good work. John O. Hesperia Ca.

Why choose a Stroker Engine?

Together we look at your engine requirements such as application, gasoline octane, idle quality, vacuum needs for power brakes, desired stall speed and peek horsepower goals.  

After consultation and discussion of your requirements and various component choices and upgrades together we will develop a combination outline using high performance parts based on price and strength to achieve your goals.
Your engine project will then begin.

I do build engines for drag racing, off road, 4X4, mud bogs, truck and tractor pulling, Chevys, Fords, LS1, Dodge, Pontiac, etc, no 4 cylinders, but my specialty is high performance street motors and monster mountian motors and various types of racing engines.

I don't just target making big horsepower by using cylinder heads with large intake ports and long duration camshafts. Instead I recommend the use of  either CNC ported cylinder heads, or as cast heads with the highest low characteristics while minimizing intake port size. Large ports do flow a lot of air to support upper RPM horsepower, however in reduces low speed torque and throttle response. In other words it is not as fast zero to 40 mph.

By using heads with better port design, a smaller port can flow as much air as a larger port to make the horsepower number, but also provide snappy acceleration from 2000 rpm on up, ideal for the street, and 60 foot times, especially with heavier cars with low speed torque converters.

 As for the camshaft, I either use the most effective power producing cam profiles currently available, or preferably I have a custom camshaft designed for your particular engine.
These cams utilize various lobe separation angles and event timing to adjust duration and lift to produce the most power while maximizing vacuum and balancing cylinder pressures relative to static compression ratio, quite often as high as 11:1 for 91 octane gasoline.
The results are impressive peek horsepower on the dynamometer and fast acceleration.

Most off the shelf cams are designed for standard stroke engines. Longer stroke engine need more duration, but stepping up to the next size cam is often too much. Custom cams can provide a more perfect match.

We also look at the engine requirements such as gasoline octane, especially as I sell engines around the world. Many countries have higher octanes than are available at the pump in the US. Idle quality and vacuum needs for power brakes are critical. We also look at the torque converter stall speed and peek horsepower desired.
Then using computer simulation programs, Stroker Engine associate engine design consultants, manufacture technicians and experience we select each component to work together to produce the most vacuum, maximum low and mid speed torque and peek horsepower RPM.
To this end I do tend to use as much compression ratio as practical while avoiding detonation, yet maximizing cylinder pressure.
I also smoothing out all sharp edges the the combustion chamber to prevent pre-ignition.

Depending on requirements we either use a flat tappet or a roller camshaft in either hydraulic or solid. We choose valve train parts for required strength and weight, based on RPM and lift.
Spring pressure is setup to maximize cam lobe life.

It is attention to the details that make for a more perfect motor.

COMPRESSION  is worth power, but not so much as to risk detonation. Longer stroker tolerate less COMPRESSION. Here is a test conducted by Hot Rodding magazine. A 440 Dodge with a 230/238 camshaft, stock heads with mild porting Holley duel plenum manifold and 850 Speed Demon carb.

 8:1   440bhp @ 5300     486tq @ 4000     9.9 in/Hg
 9:1   460bhp @ 5400     506tq @ 4400    10.1 in/Hg
10:1   484bhp @ 5400     518tq @ 4500    10.9 in/Hg
11:1   500bhp @ 5400     531tq @ 4500    11.2 in/Hg

The intake manifold and exhaust headers are matched to RPM engine size, as is the carburetor.
In this way I believe I offer the most powerful engine combinations both at low and higher RPMs.

Building a high performance engine involves balancing compromises, such as high speed verse low speed operation.
Maybe you want a cool racy sounding idle yet enough vacuum, or a sleeper. The most difficult compromise is power verses cost. I will work with you in this area, offer many possible combinations of components, but these are high performances, not the hopped up reconditioned engine the local machine shop you find in the local yellow pages will build.

Longer stroke motors introduce further compromised due to our efforts to max out an engine power potential. Some motor can consume a little more oil, or need some parts replaced before 100,000 miles. Make sure you ask about life expectancy. 

 (See Rod/Stroke Ratios) High piston speeds, server rod angles and many other factors effect engine life expectancy power output and strength requirements and cost. I build custom engines based on your requirements, not two or three choices based on a horsepower number. I'm an engine builder first, internet marketing company second. You will find I offer products beyond engines, most because I believe they are good value, but also to make a buck. Thank a look at my Links Page 

To reduce cost I do use import cranks and rods, which have proven strong enough for most the given application, but I do also use American crankshafts and rods if you prefer or if the engine power output pushes the limits, especially in racing motors.

While I do everything I can to ensure long life, some engines can consume a little oil if we use long rods and short pistons in order to reduce weight and increase acceleration.
But because many of these engines will be run hard, they may need freshening up before 100,000 miles anyway.
Your driving style has as much to do with life expectancy as the internal components.

The block is either CNC blueprint machined or budget machined to reduce final cost.
Parts are ordered, components are trial fitted and checked for clearance.
Rotating and reciprocating parts are balanced and then engine construction begins.
These are not "cookie cutter engines". Machining and construction time takes at least six to twelve weeks, depending on sophistication level and current workload.

An aluminum block weighs less, but cost more, is it worth it?
To help you decide here is a theoretical mathematical example maybe a little optimistic than found in the real world .
A 540 cid BBC making 700bhp in a 3500lb car, calculates to run 9.71 seconds at 136.9mph
Loosing 140lbs by switching to the new Merlin X block at $2000 more than a Dart iron block, the run will be made in 9.60 seconds at 138.8mph or 0.14 seconds faster.

By keeping the weight at 3500lbs, but increasing the BHP by 28 we run the same 9.60 ET.
Making another 28bhp is not difficult, until we have made all there is to be made and making more will cost a lot more.
A ProCharger with an intercooler will double your BHP for about $4500, 700bhp to 1400bhp,
or $4500 :- 700bhp = $6.42 per bhp.
$2000 :- 140lbs = $15.38 per LB.

So if 0.14 seconds cost $2000, then 28 more horsepower would need cost more than $71 per horsepower before the weight advantage becomes the better value.
HOWEVER at some point the only way you are going to go quicker is when the engine is maxed out for power, or the reduced weigh make the car handle better having less tendency to understeer, this may prove to be very important.

Consider a dragster weighing 2000lbs with a blown iron block BBC making 1300bhp.
Running well all day long making consistent passes at 7.36 @ 202.70 comes to the final round against another dragster with a aluminum block BBC making 1300bhp, but weighing 1870lbs running ETs of 7.20 @ 207.29.
Do you think having spent an addition $2000 on a $30,000 race car would be a waste of money?

The value of an aluminum block must ultimately be judged by the beneficial end result it provides, not by it's increase in cost.

Another option would been more CID. For Chevrolet the Merlin Pro block can displace 786cid for the same block price, everything will cost way more, but consider how much more torque you will be buying.

For Ford the Eliminator Premier block can displace 660cid.

I offer custom camshafts specifically designed around the compression ratio, intake & exhaust systems and application. These camshafts produce maximum power and vacuum.

Once your engine is complete I can pre-start it to break it in and check it to prevent any possible problems before shipping. I highly recommend this option so you know that you can just install the engine and drive. I can also dyno test the motor for power output.
I then drain the oil replace the oil filter and shipped the stroker engine to you in an engine crate.

The Stroker Engine Company is John Nijssen in an association with a number of other machine shops offering specialized services.
While I finish every engine myself I may not do every task on a particular engine.

In addition to the custom built engines I assemble, I also offer engines from other sources, such as GM Performance crate engines, the Mr Goodwrench crate engines, which I also offer converted into 383 turnkey engines.

I also build LS1, LS2, LS6 and Darton sleeve big bore blocks or use the C5R racing block.

Together, we will figure out the best combination for your unique application.
Try calling me on my cell phone first 760-508-4562. The office phone is 760-247-0690.

I keep my office at home to increase my hours of operation, taking your calls from 8am to 8pm PST, that's California time where I live out in the dessert.
In addition to reduced overhead from having a home office, you have increase security in that you know "where I live".

I love building high performance engines; it's what I do.
I work out of the various machine shops of my associates, each with their own specialties.
I'll do my best to build the most powerful motors with the widest most effective power band.

Thank you for looking at my web site, I hope you enjoy the time you spend here. I tried to minimize the reading you need to do, but there are many technical pages found in this site you may enjoy.

As for engine choices, go to the brand you are interested in, and look at some of the combination examples I present.

Click  

Drag Racing

  

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 763 mph

 

The High-Speed Internal-Combustion Engine by Sir Harry Ricardo and J.G.G. Hempson

  © 2003 The Stroker Engine Company  161616 - 07/21/07 142646 05 69340 11/05   139546 01/27/07  0406 167998 120709 110506

 

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