Performance V8 Engines American Price Delievered To You In Australia
Gi'day. My name John Nijssen aka Stroker John.
I Specialize In Supplying Performance Engines To Aussies.
Both Wicked Powerful Monsters And More Modest Lower Cost Hopped Up Mills
I Focus On Australia Because I Can Really Help You Reduce The Final Price You Pay
I'll Sell You The Combination Of Parts And Labor At American Pricing, No Middleman Markup Or Importation Fees Added To My Price
I Send The Motor At Minimal Shipping Cost, See More Details Below
Combined This Reduces The GST You Pay This Page And My Website Will Provide Information On Possible Combinations And How To Get A Performane Or Crate Engine Or Other Things Sent Over
But Bottom Line, If You Want Something You Need To Email Me At strokerengine@hotmail.com
Or Phone California 9am-11pm 760-508-4562 To Reach Me On My Mobile Phone
Scrolled Down Look Around I Show Lots Of Examples Of What I Can Do For You
But I'm Not Selling Engines From This Website I Build Or Supply For Specific Request, So You Need To Contact Me
(No not my car, just tuned it a prepared it for shipping)
I created this webpage specifically for Australians.
However most of information applies to most countries such as NZ Europe Asia and Russia.
Each country has it's own government importation fees.
I added the Oz page because I get so many requests from Aussies for engines or just information.
I don't mind answering performance engine questions and giving away trade secrets.
If you plan to phone me, check on the time first. It is my mobile number.
If I don't answer it is because I didn't hear it ring. Sometimes I'm making noise and wearing headphones.
I am a New Zealander living in the USA since 1982 and began building custom performance V8 engines in 2001.
I came to the USA because I wanted to work on V8 engines, not inline motors, or V6s, but as a "Motorhead" I will discuss any type of motor. I keep an eye open for the latest thinking in performance improvements.
While I show quite a few motor options in this site, they are only examples, I can come up with most anything you want. When it is over my head, I have people who step up to help me.
While I do Clevelands, I don't feature a "crate" engine version as most tend to be Clevors, however there are still a few 351C blocks around to build more stock looking combinations.
Recent combinations I have built include a Ford Windsor for a hualing truck making 580 torque at 3500rpm, a small block Chev making 715 horsepower for a dirt drag trike. I did this big block Mopar in the photo using an 8-71 blower to make 875Hp at 6000rpm on pump petrol. A big block 540 Chev kicking out 710Hp at 5500rpm. I've done 590 BBCs for trucks needing 700 torque.
I intend this site as both a place to find engines and also a tech resource, although you will need to dig through my site
Understanding horsepower and why you must quote RPM. Note that these 2 engines one a 302CID the other 602CID both make 500Hp, but one is clearly more powerful than the other.
Look at this same 408CIDengine one having a 450Hp tune up then a 750Hp.
On the street the 450Hp motor will be faster across the intersection, assuming you have traction, good luck, that the 750Hp beasty.
Why? Look at how the lower Hp mill makes more torque from 2000 RPM to almost 4000R RPM.
Ignore the difference in Hp as it is torque that accelerates a car. To get the 750Hp motor to hang with the 450Hp, you would want a high speed torque convertor.
Now take both cars to the drag strip on slicks. With the same stall speed the 450Hp car will jump out in front.
Shift into second and now the 750Hp car is catching up, and passing at some point.
Third gear, forget about it, 750Hp is making serious MPH.
Now put a higher stall speed convertor behind the 750 car and it's out in front from the get go.
But back on the street the 750Hp car has no power brakes, idles fast and rough, and struggles to drive slowly up a steep driveway.
So make sure you are not blinded by impressive Hp numbers, build an engine to do the job you need.
And remenber more CID always makes more power!
Why are you using low performance water in your high performance motor?
I hope you are using best oil you can get, so shouldn't you use the best coolant you can find? Well here it is
Never worry about over heating again, in fact you want you motor to run hot as it will make more power that way.
And by the way, no more rusting of the block.
Evans Waterless Coolants are the ONLY 100% waterless automotive engine coolant available on the market. All Evans Waterless Coolants are a chemical blend that results in more efficient cooling due to a higher boiling point. The increased boiling point of the coolant eliminates the occurance of boil over, cavitation, and detonation. Not only do Evans Waterless Coolants not boil over,they do not freeze. At extreme cold temperatures the coolants contract and become extremely thick, not becoming solid and expanding like antifreeze containing water. Because Evans Waterless Coolants do not contain water electrolysis and corrosion are also eliminated. Every Evans Waterless Coolant requires the entire cooling system to be drained (radiator, engine block and heater core) and refilled 100% with one of the Evans Waterless Coolants. No need to add anything. Evans now has three different coolants to choose from depending on the application and use of your specific vehicle. Also available is a flush fluid for smaller engines without block drains.
Evans High Performance Coolant combines the benefits of Evans NPG+ and NPGR. NPG+c provides superior cooling protection for all gasoline and light duty diesel engines, including marine and light aircraft. In conditions ranging from -40˚ to 375˚F. High Performance Coolant provides cooling protection through constant liquid coolant contact with engine metals. Eliminates water-causing corrosion, electrolysis and cavitation. One successful installation provides cooling protection for the life-time of the engine, reducing maintenance time and expense.
Why Protected Your Expensive Engine With Piece Of Paper?
The Last Oil Filter You Will Every Need To Buy For Your Engine.
Twice The Surface Area - Half the Micron Size Nothing Bad Gets Through
I Build "Custom" Engines Myself, typically more unique combinations with the good heads or supercharged.
The milder performance motors I commission my friends/competition to help me put together as there are only so many hours in a day.
I also have a source for LS motors and Chrysler Hemis from wrecked vehicles. Additional I'll look for good deals on used motors for you If you find something for sale somewhere I can help you get it, just write to me. Resent example 2010 Camaro L99 with 6L80E $8500.
While I'm a high performance guy I can supply stock remanufactured engine that I buy from one of the nations premier mass production companies.
They supplier most brands and types of engines. A stock 350 Chev or Ford 302 cost about $2200 before shipping to Oz A Dodge Hemi is closer to $4000 I can provide excellent pricing and shipping costs.
I sell Parts.
Domestic Parts:
I can supply parts from Summit Racing at lower pricing than you'll see on ebay.com.au
On many items I can match Summit's price, on other never more than 10% over advertising.
I also supply from Howard and Crower.
Shipping:I can mail small packages Post Office, heavier pieces go DSL (or whatever cost less, the PO has limitations) at approx $100 10lbs/4.5kilo $190 20lbs/9kilo $380 50lbs/23kilo
$500 will get you 50kilos airmail, but the box must not be overly large.
Ocean shipping is $475 or 550 depending on the pallet size.
This is 32" X 24" X 43" high 500lbs and is the $500 package
48" X 36" 36" high 980lbs $550 2 engines or engine and transmission
Biggest load I have shipped cost $625
I use plastic pallets, no timber.
Add approx. $100 for each $10,000 of insurance
An engine cost approx $2000 to fly.
I can not be sure how much government fees you will pay. I can tell you I sent an engine and transmission valved at $18,000, a business owner paid $500ASD and a private person paid $1200ASD. They were in differing territories.
I have contacts in Oz that maybe able to help you, but they do expect to be paid for any services they provide.
At the end of the day, find out what you will pay tho buy what you want locally, then check with me for a price and with customs to learn off their fees and see if I can save you some money.
The answer is usually yes, a bunch.
The free trade agreement between the US and Australian Governments allows for product manufactured in the US to enter Australia Duty Free, any customs clearance or GST will still be applicable.
Free trade document filled out, duty = $0
Customs clearance & port charges approx $500AUD
Australian GST 10% You should look into business tax deduction opportunities
I buy long blocks from a larger company than I that build them at a discount for me. I can either ship them as a long block the way I get them, or finished them off with a turnkey package, either carburatored or EFI.
I can supply the new Mopar Hemi motors in various configurations.
LS and LSX motors. All kinds of performance levels. Ground up builds, GM built Stroker Engine modified builds under $15,000 and high dollar high powered LSX 454s 500s supercharged starting at $20,000 and heading north. You can also get these motors ready to go with computer drivin 4 and 6 speed automtic transmissions.
OCTANE RATINGS Australias 91 is close to Ameica's 87 and your 98 is our 92
I build specialized motors, such as Clevor with CHI or Yates heads, or Chev 434cid stump pullers. 557 Big block fords, or 630Cid Big Block Chevs and LS motors
See links at top of page for examples. Be sure to look at my Home page.
They take a few months to build as I put a lot of time into them. The goal is either the most power for the money, or something you don't find many other engine builder wanting to do.
Need more power, Whipple Screw Compressor are expensive (approx $5000) or so, but add 60% more power, a Procharger (approx $4000) can add 75% on pump petrol. For more power you will need race gas and add more boost.
While there is hot debate between which type blower is best, my opinion is that Prochager can make more peak Hp, because you can use an intercooler to run upto 16psi boost, but a Whipple will accelerate the engine faster even at 10psi. Add a water injection kit, and I'd say the Whipple will rule, but they do cost more money.
671 and 871 type blowers cost a little over $3000 not including carbs, look awesome because they stick through the bonnet, unlike Whipples and Prochargers which you can hide, but only add about 30% more power because they are really pumps, or blowers not supercharger compressors and as such get hot and can only deliver about 7psi before the engines wants to detonate, however once again water injection can raise that limit.
Every now and then a good deal on Yates NASCAR engines comes up on Ebay
This product specifies 7/32 inch gasket, and maximum tightening torque of 3 foot pounds
proprietary stainless steel deflector plate
At idle, oil gurgles above rockers showing complete valve train movement.
Oil sheets off valve cover after high rpm engine operation in about 30 seconds.
I also build LPG motors based on performance combinations. I can supply a 632 motor capable of well over 800lbs/ft under 3000rpm for big trucks.
Click here to run the
Keith Black Racing Engines Flash Movie!
The Only Streetable Aluminum Rod
Urban legends abound in the gearhead community. One is: aluminum connecting rods don't work in street engines. Prior to the mid-'70s, that might have been true, however, introduction of the Bill Miller Engineering Forged Aluminum Connecting Rod in 1975 provided an exception to that myth.
The BME Rod has great durability in high-end, high-power, street/strip or hot street engines because it is die-forged, rather than cut out of a plate. Bill Miller Engineering's unique, aluminum alloy further enhances fatigue strength such that the durability of BME Rod rivals that of many forged steel rods and exceeds that of a few.
About 20 years ago, a few resourceful engine builders, led by H-O Racing's, Ken Crocie, began using BME Rods in very-high-performance street engines. Crocie, a racing and street/strip Pontiac V8 specialist, faced with a shortage of acceptable steel rods for Pontiacs, began to use BME Aluminum Rods. While a few other engine builders followed Crocie's lead, admittedly, use of the Bill MIller Engineering Rod in street engines has not been widespread, but that's only because of its higher cost and the stubborn belief that any aluminum rod is unsuitable for street use.
"In a street application, using the aluminum rod is a no brainer,"BME President, Bill Miller, recently said in an interview with an automotive magazine. "I don't know how the myth that aluminum rods can't be used on the street got started, but I'll guess that, back in the 60s and early-70s, they weren't making them using the process we're using, today. With the material we've got and they way we manufacture the connecting rods, they'll live a couple hundred thousand miles on the street because a street application is, for the most part, low load. Our basic Aluminum Rod is made for 10,000 rpm and 800-hp. The design criteria for the connecting rod is way overkill for what it's going see on the street. We been running aluminum rods on the street for 20 years."
Tigtehing Up On Your Lifters
So, until the cam designers can provide a detailed and valid reason for absolutely positively having to run sloppy lash (and simply saying that it's because of the ramps involved, isn't an answer, we've heard that already a million times before, so let's have a real answer by giving details and actually EXPLAINING why), let's say we decide to tighten those lash specs some. This is in an effort to increase the fatigue life of our solid roller lifters, by reducing the severity of those repeated hammer blows. And some cam designers have even said that running less lash may help the lifters live longer, which runs counter to that loose lash being called for, and supports the thinking about running tighter lash. The typical engine in this discussion is an aluminum headed BBC, so let's stay with that theme. With this setup, you'll gain about .006 lash from cold to hot, up at the rocker tip. And you have to take into account the rocker ratio as well, because as referenced above, the clearance at the lifter, is different than the clearance at the rocker tip. But of course, no matter what, we have to have enough clearance cold, to ensure that the valves will be seating fully and freely. So, everything in terms of planning our new tighter lash will need to start with sufficient clearance at the lifter, cold. We want to go as tight as we can to help the lifters, but not so tight as to cause the valves any problems. I believe we can accomplish this requirement by running .002 lifter lash, cold. And that ends up equaling .0034 cold, at the rocker tip where we always set lash, with 1.7 ratio rockers. So, set them to a loose .003 and you're good to go. This will endup as .0094 hot lash at the rocker, and .0055 hot lash at the lifter. Now compare that to the averages of the engines listed above, which were .022 hot lash at the rocker and .013 hot lash at the lifter. That ends up being almost a 60% reduction in lifter slop. That has got to provide an enormous reduction in lifter shock loads. How much will that extend lifter life? Its hard to say for sure. That's like asking, if we stop eating pizza, burgers and fries, and instead eat fish, chicken, fruits and veggies, how much longer will we live? Again, it's hard to say for sure, but we know it’s the right thing to do. Same thing for the lifters, it's the right thing to do, to maximize their life. Now that we've minimized the shock loading the solid roller lifters, we still haven't reached the lash free life of the long living hydraulic roller lifters, so what now? We are as close as we can get, by addressing the main problem of the never-ending hammer blow shock loads, but NOW by adding a Rev-Kit, we will have done all we can possibly do, to help the lifters live as long as they can. And only time will tell how much all this buys us. For those of you who just can't accept the idea of tighter lash, just remember, if you keep on doin' what you've always done, you're gonna keep on gettin' what you've always got. Personally, I can't live with what we've always got, so I plan to move forward. Call it crazy or pushing the envelope if you like, but if we didn't do crazy things and push the envelope, we'd still be driving horses and buggies instead of Hotrods and Race cars. Think about it, when guys first started working on horseless carriage (automobile) development and aircraft development way way way back in the day, they were thought to be insane, but look where we are now with that stuff.
My best advice would be to experiment with tightening up on your lifters. This takes measuring your engine perormancew with either a dyno or an ET clock
The Cometic Phuzion Head Gasket is the next stage in head gasket development from Cometic Gasket. Comprised of a Cometic MLS head gasket and multiple Garlock Helicoflex gas filled o-rings. By combining the two technologies a superior combustion seal is created without machining any grooves in your block and/or head.
The gas filled o-ring portion of Phuzion is manufactured from high strength aerospace tubing capable of withstanding ultra high combustion temperatures and pressures. Additionally each ring is plated with silver to increase the sealing level and minimize brinelling. The silver also aids in withstanding head to block movements without burnishing the surfaces. The real innovation to the gas filled o-ring though, is the gas itself. During the manufacturing process the gas in the ring is sealed in at 500-600 psi at room temperature. As the engine is warmed up, the gas is heated increasing the pressure inside the ring causing it to expand. This allows the ring to seal the combustion even in the event of head liftoff.
The MLS gasket portion of Phuzion is what gives you the ability to use the gas filled o-rings without machining any grooves in your block and/or head. MLS head gaskets are comprised of three layers. Viton coated embossed spring steel outer layers and a steel inner layer, which provides support and thickness to the gasket. Embossments on the MLS gasket allow for proper seal around oil and water passages.
onYou can hear the quality of a well-tuned engine and its components. With Scorpion short travel retrofit hydraulic roller lifters, you can count on getting the most from your cam and making your engine sound sweet. These made-in-the-USA lifters are crafted from cold-forged billet steel for exceptional wear resistance. They feature a precision-ground needle roller bearing with a high-chromium steel axle for minimal friction. Due to Scorpion's attention to details, these lifters' precision-ground and fitted billet piston offers controlled leakdown and pump-up, shorter plunger travel for better reaction at higher rpm, and exact oil metering to ensure proper lubing to the rocker arms without losing oil pressure. Along with their lightweight design, which equals less resistance, every lifter is tested--not batch tested--to make sure that your engine sings. Replace your lifters with the sound of quality from Scorpion short travel retrofit hydraulic roller lifters.
CAR & BIKE FINDER I can find cars and Harley Davidsons for people overseas and arrange shipping as a favor, but it is not my full time thing.
I can help you find cars over here and arrange shipping them to you. It is not my specialty, just a service I provide more as a favor not as a full time business. I do occasional send used engines overseas.
As I understand it there are restrictions on importing motor cycles into Oz. If you want a Harley and we find what you are looking for, I will dismantle it far enough for it to be legally classified as parts and ship it over to you.
I am not a big shop with hired sales people. I do it all myself so I recommend you write with any questions you have.
These FAST multi-port retro-fit EZ-EFI kits are self-tuning systems that don't require the use of a complicated laptop or EFI tuning experience. They include a self-tuning ECU, a wide band oxygen sensor, a hand-held user interface, a tach adapter, a multi-port wiring harness, and everything necessary for a quick and easy installation. Their built-in diagnostics and engine protection provide maximum engine safety, and the kits can run up to eight high-impedance fuel injectors to support various engine applications.
FST-30226-KIT
Fear not, fuel injection fans. FAST has just made it easier than ever to convert your engine from a carburetor to fuel injection with these FAST EZ-EFI self-tuning fuel injection systems. The most important feature is the self-tuning operation that does not require chasing components, expert tuning experience, or a laptop computer to tune. Simply hook them up, answer the basic Wizard setup questions on the included hand-held display, and the systems truly tune themselves. The FAST EZ-EFI self-tuning fuel injection systems are totally complete systems. They include the ECU, a wide-band oxygen sensor, a wiring harness, and the innovative new FAST 4150 throttle body. The throttle body delivers the total package approach for anyone with an existing 4150-type intake manifold.
HLY-554-113 HLY-550-600
These Holley HP EFI engine control units allow you to control the fuel and ignition of your engine, along with additional controls for nitrous, boost, or water methanol.
Features include:
* Eight sequentially driven 8:2 peak and hold injector drivers capable of driving up to 16 low or high-impedance injectors are standard * 8-channel distributorless ignition (DIS) outputs capable of directly driving "smart" ignition coils or Holley DIS coils * Integrated, single-channel wideband oxygen sensor control. Works with NTK or Bosch sensors. More channels can be added via CAN bus. * Internal data-logging standard with a huge 2GB of memory * 4-stage progressive nitrous control * Turbo boost control * Integrated water/methanol injection control * Self-tuning fuel table strategy greatly simplifies tuning process * Individual cylinder fuel and spark control allow you to unlock your engine's potential * Compatible with 4, 6, and 8-cylinder engines * Unique lbs./hr.-based fueling strategy greatly simplifies tuning * Advanced idle, closed loop, and enrichment strategies allow for very stable operation * Fully potted and can be mounted in the engine compartment or interior * Sealed automotive and marine-grade connectors * Allows for use of common OEM sensors, as well as customer sensor calibration input * Ignition plug and play with GM 24x and 58x LSx engines, GM HEI, Ford TFI, magnetic, and hall effect trigger, and other ignition systems * 1-5 bar MAP sensor capability * 2-channel knock control sensor inputs for both one and 2-wire knock sensors * Dedicated fuel and oil pressure inputs * Control both stepper and PWM idle air control (IAC) motors * Speed density, Alpha-N, or combination fueling strategies * Four programmable high or low pulse width modulated (PWM) outputs and four fully configurable inputs can be configured for use * Lean or rich safety cutoff
HLY-550-402 900cfm 600Hp
These Holley Avenger EFI engine management systems are intended for users who want a bolt-on-and-go EFI system without the need for a laptop computer. The secret is the innovative Avenger EFI hand-held controller and the breakthrough technology of our self-tuning fueling strategies. The compact, easy-to-use controller guides you through the simple setup wizard, where you answer a few key questions about your engine setup. Once that basic information is loaded, you fire up the engine, run it through various rpm stages, and drive it to tuning perfection. The self-learning strategy will automatically tune your engine as you drive to deliver the optimum air/fuel ratios for performance and mileage.
(No not my car, just tuned it a prepared it for shipping)
The Last Oil Filter You Will Every Need To Buy For Your Engine.
CLICK HERE FOR GM MOTORS
Motor Cycle
FST-302000
FST-30226-KIT
HLY-554-113 HLY-550-600
